PRISCILLA 

JUNIORS- 
CROCHET 
BOOK 

A Lesson Book 



Children 



Published bij 

The Priscilla Publishing Co. 

Boston,Mass. 










^to^ 



Priscilla Juniors' 
Embroidery Outfit 

This Embroidery Outfit is made up specially for little girls. It is 
remarkably complete, containing practically everything that little 
folks will need for embroidery. The outfit is of an exceptionally 
high quality, price considered, and we believe it will give perfect 
satisfaction. 

The Complete Outfit Contains 

1 5-inch stamped Doily for Doll's Table . . $.08 

1 Skein Embroidery Cotton 03 

1 Instruction Sheet for working 05 

1 Aluminum Thimble 05 

1 Bone Stiletto 10 

1 Strawberry Emery 10 

1 Needlebook, containing 5 Embroidery Needles, 

assorted sizes ....... .04 

1 4-inch Embroidery Hoop . . . . . .10 

1 Pair Embroidery Scissors .25 

Regular Price, $.80 

Special Price, Only 50^ Postpaid 

This Embroidery Outfit is sent in a special fitted box which is 
nice enough for every little girl to save and use as her very own 
"Work Box." 

The Priscilla Needlework Company 

87 Broad Street Boston, Mass. 



PMSCILLA JUNIORS' 
CROCHET BOOK 



Models and Directions for 

Crocheting adapted to Girls from 

8 t© 12 years 



Belle Robinson 



Price, 15 



PUIBLISHED BY 

THE PMSCILLA PUBLISHING CO, 
BOSTOM, MASS. 



Copyright. 1914. by The Priscilla Publishing Company 
Trade Mark Reg. U. S. Patent Office 
Entered at Stationers' Hall. London 
All 



TTes^o 




Louise 



2 

JC12 1914 

©CI.A386246 



A Letter About Crochet 




Y dear Niece Louise: 

Ever since you sent to your Grandmother, last Christmas, 
some of your first crocheting, I have thought a Httle girl 
eight years old should have some more help if she could crochet as 
well as that. Now, if I could write the directions for some more 
nice things to be crocheted, that would help you ; and if we 
could have it printed it would help ever so many more little 
girls. 

Threads and Crochet Needles or Hooks. — There are so 
many different threads used in crocheting, wool, cotton, silk, and 
linen. With wool, as in the Cap. No. 514; Reins, No. 515; 
Afghan, No. 503; and Pincushion, No. 513. A medium-size 
bone crochet-hook is used. A hook of rubber or amber will 
answer the same purpose. But for cotton or silk or linen a steel 
crochet-hook is better. These are of many sizes, from No. i 
(a very large hook, almost as large as a medium-size bone hook) 
to No. 14, which is very fine and perhaps you will not need 
to use anything so fine for some time. Number 8 or No. 10 will 
be fine enough to do the work that is given here. 



The cotton used for the 
504, and other bits of 
II, for the Luncheon 
•small Doily, No. 512, is 
chet cotton called Cor- 
507, and Doll's Cushion- 
Doll's Book Satchel, No. 
w^arp. The J^ace Cloths, 
and the Plate Protector, 
soft knitting cotton, 
of white flannel, No. 
crochet silk and is 
somer than any picture 
the smaller medallions 
of linen crochet thread, 
a soft, loosely twisted 




Fig. I. 
Chain Stitch 



Towel Insertion, No. 
Filet .Crochet on page 
Napkin, No. 516, and the 
of tightly twisted cro- 
donnet. The Doily, No. 
cover. No. 519, and 
518, are made of carpet 
Nos. 500, 501, and 502, 
No. 505, are made of 
The Baby Doll's Blanket 
506, is edged w i t h 
really very much hand- 
can express. Some of 
on pages 14 and 15 are 
The Bib, No. 520, is of 
crochet cotton. 




Fig. 2. Slip Stitch 




Fig. 3. Double Crochet 



Stitches. — You will need to 

know the names of the different 

stitches .used in crocheting; and if 

you learn .the proper names you 

will be able to work so much 

more intelligently. There are 

people who know how to 

make stitches but do not 

know the names they should 

be called. 

Their work may b e 
very good and look well but 
it is so much better to know 
what you are making. Chain stitch, slip stitch, double crochet, 
treble crochet, double treble, and afghan stitch are all that 
you will need to learn for the present. The slipper stitch. Fig. 
17, is only a special way of making double crochet. 

When you are sure of these names we will give the letters 
that stand for each name. In this way : Chain stitch is meant 
by the letters 
*'ch" ; slip stitch by 
''si" ; double cro- 
chet by "d" ; treble 
crochet by "t" ; 
double treble by 
'VI t". The whole 
name is written 
out for afghan and 
slipper stitches. 
Let us talk about 
the first five 
stitches. You will 
see at Fig. i on 
page 3, the Chain 
Stitch started. 
You will easily un- 
derstand how the Fig. 4. Position of Hands 

4 





Fig. 5. Treble Crochet 




Fig. 6. Double Treble 



needle or hook, first through 
a loop, is caught under the 
thread over your left fore- 
finger, and catching a loop 
there it is pulled back 
through the loop on the nee- 
dle. This is repeated as 
long as the chain is to be 
made. It shows very clearly 
in Fig. 4 where you have 
the thread ready to draw 
through the loop or stitch. 
In fact your position of 
hands is very good there as 
well as in the frontispiece 
and shows you understand 

that very well. It is such a help towards making it plain for the 
other girls. With the crochet-needle in the right hand, the 
thread coming up over the left forefinger and the piece held be- 
tween the fingers of both hands, you are ready to work. If one 
would rather, the thread may be wrapped once around the lit- 
tle finger of the left hand, under the next two fingers, and up 
over the forefinger. Some people have been known to coil the 
thread four or five times around the forefinger, and then the 
needle scrapes the skin off the finger, but that is not at all the 
best way. Holding the forefinger at a little distance as you 
have it is so much better. 

Slip Stitch, Fig. 2, page 4, is made with the needle in the 
loop, a loop pulled through the work and through the loop on 
the needle. In the model a chain is made and a row of slip 
stitches is made, one in each chain. Very often a single slip stitch 
is made to fasten tightly, or it may be made over other work to 
carry the thread along. And be sure to remember that "si" 
means slip stitch. 

Double Crochet, Fig. 3, is made with the needle in the loop, 
a loop drawn through the work and another loop drawn through 
both. This last loop shows clearly in the model, where it is 

5 




No. 500. Face Cloth 



drawn through both the 
others but not yet drawn 
tight. The difference 
you see between this and 
shp stitch is, the left 
loop in Fig. 2 is drawn 
through the right loop, 
in double crochet an- 
other loop is drawn 
through both. A n d 
"d" stands for double 
crochet. 

Treble Crochet, Fig. 
5, is made with the nee- 
dle in the loop, another 
loop over the needle, a loop drawn through the work (making 
three loops on the needle), then a loop is drawn through two on 
the needle, leaving two loops on the needle ; another loop drawn 
through these two finishes the treble : "t" always stands for 
treble, ^^l^en starting a row of trebles it is necessary to make 
three chain stitches to bring the needle to the top of the row. 
Double Treble Crochet, Fig. 6, is made with the needle in 
the loop, two loops over the needle, one loop drawn through the 
work, when there will be four loops on the needle ; with one 
loop through two, one loop 
through two, and finally one 
loop through the last two 
finishes the double treble cro- 
chet ; "d t" stands for double 
treble. When a row of double 
trebles is started, four 
chain stitches are necessary to 
bring the needle to the top 
of the row. 

Face-Cloth. — On this 
page, my dear Louise, you will 
see No. 500, a face-cloth like No. 501. Face Cloth 




the one you sent to your 
Grandmother. It is of Turk- 
ish toweling and is finished 
with a crocheted edge of bUie 



4S 4 » i • I / # t til itthf J J , f/f ^ 



' i * / J J > i 1 u / > / i M , , , ^ J .v; 






Iff I, 



itii 



No. 502. Face Cloth 



Pearl cotton No. 5. The 
work is finished in one row, 
and done with a steel crochet- 
needle No. 8. The edge is 
made of * i d into the cloth, 
I ch *. When you see the 
little stars before and after 
any directions, whether long 
or short, the work directed is 
to be repeated once, or more 
times. In this case we will add the direction. Repeat from '^ 
to * all around. 

Face-Cloth. — The face-cloth, No. 501, is of crocheting en- 
tirely. It is made of soft knitting cotton, No. 10, and a medium- 
size bone needle is used for the body of the cloth. The stitch 
is Slipper Stitch. 

Make a chain of 55 stitches, turn, skip one chain, make i d 
in each of the other chain stitches. 2d ro:i — Turn with one 
chain, and make i d in each stitch, taking up only the back 

loop, or loop farthest from 
you. jd row — Like the 2d 
row, and all the rest are made 
working back and forth like 
the 2d row. Crocheting once 
across is called a rozv, but it 
takes two rows to make a 
nh. 

On page 21, with the pair 
of boy's slippers, is a model 
of slipper stitch (Fig. 17), 
that may be of use. When 
twenty-nine ribs are finished, 
Fig. 7. Trebles or the cloth is about square, 




then the edge is crocheted. That is made of blue Pearl cot- 
ton and a steel crochet-needle, No. 8, is used. * One d into the 
cloth, 2 ch '•\ Repeat from "^ to ^ all around. This cloth meas- 
ures about 9 inches. 

Face-Cloth, No. 502, is another face-cloth entirely of cro- 
cheting. The thread is a soft knitting cotton, No. 14, and the 




No. 503. Afghan 

8 



TT " - T - 


LP ^ 


jf // 


UM .J'A^A 1 bU 


!• •• '^_Wr 


. ^ • • •• 2 C 


y J. . t>^/n 


p/l A '/{A 


^y^i " " 




■r —^^1^1^^ 


~H~ B^^^^^B 


~lHHH ~B~^^^^^i 













































needle is a rather small bone needle. 
Make a chain of 6o, turn and make i 
t in the fourth stitch from the needle, i 
t in each chain. 2d rozi' — Turn, ch 3, i 
t in each ch. All the other rows are 
made like the second. Figure 7 gives a 
very good picture of this stitch, but that 
model is made of No. 2 Cordonnet in- 
stead of the soft knitting cotton. 

There are 30 rows in this cloth and 
it measures about 10 inches square. It 
could be made larger or smaller if one 
wanted, by making the first chain longer 
or shorter, and making enough rows to 
have it square. The edge is in two rows. 
1st row — * One d into the cloth, 2 ch *. 
Repeat from "^ to ''' all around. 2d rozv 
— "^ Two d over ch, 3 ch, 2 d over next 
ch, 3 ch '^. Repeat from * to * all 
around. This edge is of blue Pearl cot- 
ton No. 5, and is made with a steel cro- 
chet-needle No. 3. 

Afghan for Doll's Carriage. — You may want, some day, to 
make an afghan 'for your doll's carriage, and here is a very 
pretty one to copy, No. 503. It is made in five stripes, three 
of them are of a lovely blue, without any embroidery, and 
two stripes are of white with a design of roses embroidered 

in cross-stitch. The edge 
has five rows of work, one of 
blue, one of white, and one 
of blue, another of white 
and the last one of blue. 
The afghan measures twen- 
ty-four inches long and 
twenty inches wide; by add- 
ing a few more rows to the 
border it would be large 



Fig. 9. Block Pattern 
for Afghan 

• Old Rose 
/ Light Rose 
m Light Green 
Color Scheme of Fig. 9 




Fig. 8. Afghan Stitch 



enough for a baby's carriage. It is made of Germantown 
(fourfold), and requires two and one-half skeins white German- 
tow^n, two skeins blue, one skein old /ose, one skein light old 
rose, one skein light dull green. The two shades of old rose 
and the green are used for the cross-stitch on the white stripes. 
A bone or rubber afghan needle of medium size is needed ; this 
needle should measure one-half inch around and is of the same 
thickness throughout the whole length. 

And now 
since you have 
learned the 
other stitches, 
afghan stitch is 
the next and it 
is not at all 
hard. 

To make the 
blue stripes, 
make a chain of 
1 8 stitches, turn, 
skip I ch St. and 
draw a loop 
through each of 
the other chain 
stitches. 

Then you will 
have all the 
loops on the needle at once, as the three loops stand up at the 
right of Fig. 8. That is called the first row of afghan stitch, 
the second row is done by drawing a loop through the last on 




No. 504. Towel 



IIMiliilBililil l l 



Fig. 10. Block Pattern of No. 504 
10 



the needle, then a loop through two, through two each time 
until only one remains on the needle. You will notice that 9 
stitches or loops are crocheted off in the model, Fig. 8, and 
three more are to be crocheted oft' in the same way. 

We do not turn afghan stitch around, it is all done from 
the right side, back and forth. Now when we have finished 
two rows or one rib, and only one stitch remains on the needle, 
we draw the loops again through each of the stitches that 
stand upright, until they are all on the needle again; then 
crochet them off as before and repeat these two rows as long as 
needed. The three blue stripes are 18 stitches w^de and 95 ribs 
long. The two white stripes are 22 stitches wide and 95 ribs 
long. 

When the white stripes are finished, they are to be cross- 




Fig. II. Filet Crochet Insertions 
II 




Border, ist rozc- 
blue, * I d into the afghan, 
2 ch *. Repeat from * to 
*. At the corners, the 
doubles should be close 
enough together that it 
will lie flat. 2d rozv — With 
white, 3 t over each chain, 
jj rozi' — With blue, like 
first, making the d after 
every group of 3 t and 2 ch 
between doubles. ^tJi row 
— White, like 2d. 5//? rozv 
— Blue, like 3d. 

Towel. — If vou would 



stitched with the pattern, Fig. 9. Begin at 
the top and use the pattern as many times 
as needed to fill Uie stripe. It was used 
three times here and the rose and a few 
leaves finish at the lower end. Where there 
are round dots in the pattern you should use 
old rose, where there is the line it should 
be light old rose, and the solid block should 
be made of green. The Priscilla Cross 
Stitch Book for Juniors shows very clearly 
how to do the cross-stitch. 

In the afghan work each block is be- 
tween the lines of stitches, only one of 
these upright stitches must be taken for 
each block, it must always be the line at 
the same side, that is always the left-hand 
stitch or always the right-hand stitch, 
through the whole piece of work. 

After the five stripes are finished the 
edges are crocheted together on the wrong 
side, with double crochet of white. When 
they are joined it is ready for the border. 
-W'ith 






No. 505. Plate Protector 




No. 506. 



Doll's Blanket with 
Silk Edge 



like to make a nice birth- 
day present for your Mother 
nothing could be better than 
a Httle towel like this one. 
No. 504. It is made of 
huckaback toweling, 1 5 
inches wide, and is 2^ inches 
long. An insertion 13 meshes 
wide of Filet Crochet trims 
one end, and a narrow in- 
sertion, 5 meshes wide, trims 
the other end. A hem 3 
inches wide is cut from 
each end of the linen and 
folded lengthwise, the edges 
folded in and basted ready 

to overcast to the insertion. Then a very narrow hem is made 
in each end of the towel. To make the insertion of filet crochet 
is not difficult, in fact, filet crochet is the very easiest crochet- 
ing that can be done. It is nothing but trebles and chains. 

For the narrow insertion make a chain of 16 and 5 more chain 
to turn, then make a treble in the ninth stitch from the needle, 

make 2 ch, i t in the third 
chain below (always skip 2 
ch). Three times more make 

2 ch and i t and the first 
row of open meshes is fin- 
ished. You will see that on 
the opposite page. Fig. 11, A. 
For the second row make 5 ch 
to turn and i t in the top of 
the next t below, then since 
the next mesh is a solid mesh, 
make 2 t over the chain and 
I t over the next t, then make 

3 more open meshes, ^d rozv 
— Five open meshes. 4th rozv 

13 




Fig. 13. Detail of No. 506 




No. 507. Doily 



I 

— Three open meshes, 

I soHd mesh, i open 
mesh, ^th roiv — Five 
open meshes. 6th 
rozv — Like 2d. Re- 
peat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 
and 5th rows as long 
as needed. 

To make the wi- 
der insertion, 13 
meshes wide, make a 
chain of 45, turn, and 
make i t in the ninth 
stitch from the nee- 
dle. Make three 
rows all of open 



meshes, 
meshes. 



Then there is a little "snowflake" design in solid 
Five rows complete one snowflake, the first of these 
five rows is: Five open, i solid, i. open, i solid, 5 open. 2d rozv 
— Four open, 2 solid, i open, 2 solid, 4 open, ^d row — Six 
open, I solid, 6 open. 4th rozv — Four open, 2 solid, i open, 2 
solid, 4 open, ^th rozc — Five open, i solid, i open, i solid, 5 
open. Then there are six row^s of open meshes and another five 
rows with a snowflake. Five rows of open and then begin the 
word "Mother". By carefully following the first row (up and 
down) of the letter "jM" you can easily tell which meshes are open 
and which are solid. And where there are a number of solid 
meshes make 2 t over each chain and i 
t over the top of the t below. 

It is better to catch under both 
threads at the top of the treble than un- 
der a single thread. 

When the whole word is finished 
there are 5 rows of open, 5 rows with 
I snowflake, 6 rows of open, and 5 rows 
again with i snowflake, and 3 rows of 
open at the end. A row of trebles is 

14 




No. 508. Medallion 




No. 509. Medallion 




made across each end of the insertion 
and a row of doubles over the trebles ; 
this makes a good solid end to the 
crocheting. 

If your linen is a different width 
you could add enough open rows to 
each end to make it the right length. 

Figure 11, page 11, gives three 
other insertions, B, C, and D, that can 
be made for towels or pillow-cases. 
Insertion B is 9 meshes wide and 
started in this way : Chain 33, t in 
ninth stitch from needle ; the first row 
is 9 open meshes, 2d rozv — One open, 
7 solid, I open. The pattern can be 
followed back and forth, always mak- 
ing 5 ch to turn. Insertion C is 5 
meshes wide; ch 21, t in 9th from nee- 
dle. 1st rozv — Five open meshes. 2d 
rozc — Two open, i solid, 2 open. 
^d rozv — One open, i solid, i open, i solid, i open. 4th rozv — 
Two open, i solid, 2 open. Three rows of open meshes, then 
repeat the 2d, 3d, and 4th rows. Three open rows and repeat the 
2d, 3d, and 4th again. Insertion D is 5 meshes wide; ch 21, 
t in ninth stitch from needle. Tst rozv — Five open. 2d rozv — 
One open, i solid, 3 open, ^d 
rozv — Two open, i solid, 2 open. 
4th rozv — Three open, i solid, 
I open. Repeat these four rows 
as long as desired. 

Figure 12 on page 12 is an in- 
sertion 7 meshes wide and is 
started with ch of 2"/, t in 9th 
from needle. ist rozv — Seven 
open meshes. The next 5 rows 
have the snowflake of the towel 
on page 10, with a margin of 



No. 510. Medallion 




No. 511. Medallion 



15 




No. 512. Doily 



but one open mesh 
each side instead of four 
^pen meshes. 

Plate Protector, No. 
505, page 12. — A very 
useful thing is this Plate 
Protector, that any little 
girl could make for her 
Mother's fine china. It 
is a doily made of soft 
knitting cotton No. 8, 
and crocheted with a me- 
dium size bone needle. 
A half dozen, or if your 
patience holds out, a 
dozen of these to place 
between fine plates would surely delight Mother's heart. Four 
ribbons or tapes, each a yard long, could be fastened together 
under the centre of the lower one and laced up through the loops 
at each corner; then the plates could be slipped in between the 
doilies. 

This far our crocheting has been all in straight lines, but 
now we have a round doily, No. 505. Make a chain of 8 
stitches, join in a ring with a slip stitch in the first chain, ist 
round — ]\Iake 3 ch and 19 trebles around the ring. Join with 
a si in the third of the 3 ch. The 3 ch count as one of the 
trebles and that makes 20 all around. Jci round — Five ch, * i 
d t in the ist t below, i ch '■•. Repeat from * to * until there 
are 20 altogether, then join with a si in the 4th of the 5 ch. jd 
round — Four ch, i d t over i ch, i ch, * 2 d t over next ch, I 
ch *. Repeat from '•' to * until there are 20 pairs of d t, join 
with si. 4tJi round — Four ch, 2 d t over ch, i ch, "^^ 3 d t over 
next ch, i ch ''\ Repeat until there are twenty groups of 3 d t, 
join with a si. The next two rounds make the border, but if 
a larger doily is needed, make another round with 4 d t in a group 
and I ch between, then add the border. The border might be 
of a color, ist round of border — Chain 8, join with d after 

16 




No. 513. Pincushion 



the next group, * 

ch 4, join with d 

after the next group 

*. Repeat from '-^ 

to * until there are 

four chains of 4, 

then make from the 

first of. this round 

three more times. 

2d round — Cover 

each chain of 8 with 

10 d, each ch of 4 

with 6 d. This 

doily measures six 

and one-half inches 

across ; if it is made 

one round larger, then, for the border make chains of 10 and 5 

and cover with doubles. 

Blanket for Baby Doll. — The picture of this dear little 
blanket, No. 506, on page 13, cannot show the beauty of the cloth 
and crocheting, but the detail of the work makes it quite clear. 
It is made of a twenty-five-inch square of silk-warp flannel, and 
the border is crocheted of heavy crochet silk in light blue. The 
work is done in two rows and a No. 8 steel crochet-needle is 
used. 1st rozi' — * One d into the cloth, 2 ch *. Repeat all 
around and fasten with a si. 2d rozc — * Three ch, 2 t over 
1st ch below, i d into the 2d ch, 3 ch, 2 t over same ch with 
the double *. Repeat from * to * all around. 

Doily. — This simple little doily. No. 507, is nearly five inches 
across; it is made of carpet warp and crochet-needle No. 5. 
Chain 6, join with a si in ist st, making a ring, isf round — 
Three ch, 11 t in ring, join with si. 2d round — Chain 5, i t over 
each t, and i ch between, ^d round — Chain 5, * 2 t (i ch be- 
tween) over It, I ch, i t over t, i ch *. Repeat around and 
join with si. 4th round — Chain 5, * 4 t between 2 t, ch 2, i t 
over t, 2 ch, 4 t between 2 t, 2 ch *. Repeat around and join 
v^ith si. jth round — Make 2 more t to each shell and 3 ch be- 

17 




No. 514. Cap 



tween shell and t. 6th round 
— Make the shell of 8 t with 
I ch between the 4th and 5th, 
and 3 ch between shell and 
t. ytli round — Shell of 10 t 
with 2 ch between the 5th and 
6th t, and 4 ch between shell 
and t. 8th round — Eight ch^ 
■' shell of 12 t, 5 ch, I t in t, 
5 ch ■^. Repeat from * to '^ 
Medallion. — This design, 
Xo. 508, and the following 
three medallions are made 
with centres of Battenberg 
rings. A ring measuring 

about three-quarters of an inch is used with linen spool thread 

No. 60 and No. 8 crochet-needle. These rings usually have about 

40 stitches around and we crochet into each stitch, ist round — " 

Four d into 4 stitches of the ring, 8 ch '^. Repeat this until there 

are nine loops of ch, when making the tenth loop ch 6 and make 

I t into the ist d, then the needle will be in place to commence 

the second round. 2d 

round — Alake i d, 8 

t, I d over each ch, 

and fasten the thread. 
Medallion.— This 

medallion, Xo. 509, 

is made of X^o. 30 Cor- 

donnet and X^o. 9 

crochet-needle, with 

ring for centre. Make 

a round of d, if it 

counts thirty-two it 

will make the eight 

points. 2d round 

■ — One d in each d. 

Sd round — * Four d No. 515. Reins with Bells 






Fig. 15. Pattern for No. 515 



Fig. 14. Edwin and the Little Boy 

over 4 d, ch 7, skip i ch and 
make 6 d in the other 6 ch '^. 
Make from =^ to * 8 times. 4th 
round — SHp stitch across 4 d 
19 




No. 516. Luncheon Napkin 



and up I ch, make 5 d, i ch, 5 d 
around the other points, and 
3 ch between points, f^tli round 
■ — sup stitch over i d, 3 d in 
next 3 d, 2 d in d at point, 3 d 
in next 3 d, 3 ch. Repeat 
around. 

These medallions will serve 
a variety of purposes; any one 
could be used for the centre 

of a larger piece of crocheting and save work starting a centre. 
Rows of them could be crocheted together for an insertion, and 
a heading made along each side ; or pretty lace could be made. 

Medallion, No. 510, is much like No. 508. It is made of 
heavy linen crochet thread about No. 8, and No. 8 crochet-nee- 
dle. 1st round — Thirty-six d into the lace ring. 2d round — 
One d into each d. J J round — One d into i d, 5 ch (skip i d 
below), 2 d in 2 d. Repeat. 4th round — One d, 6 t, i d over 
each chain of five. 

Medallion, No. 511. — With the same thread and needle as 
No. 510, make ^ 3 d over 3 stitches of a ring, 4 ch, 3 d *, then 
make 2 ch and take up another ring and make from ''= to * on 
the second ring without breaking the thread, 2 ch and the same 
on a third ring, 2 ch and the same on a fourth ring. Then with 
2 ch join with si to ist d made. This will join the rings in 
the centre 
fourth ring and 
make 4 d (around 
outside the ring), 
4 ch, 4 d, 7 ch, 4 
d, 4 ch, 4 d, 7 ch, 
4 d, 4 ch, 4 d, 7 
ch, 4 d, 4 ch, 4 
d. This brings 
the work entirely 
around one ring. 
Make 2 ch and 



Without breaking the thread make 2 ch back to the 



x^^^-s ^y^^i :r7^:.'\ ..Trt . ^^ • ^ jl 



Fig. 16. Detail of No. 5i( 
20 



crochet in this way 
around each of the 
other three rings. 

Fasten the thread 
and begin, for the 
border, at one of 
the corner loops of 
9 ch, I d in 



-ch, 
next 
ch, I 
loop. 



long loop, 7 



d in next lon< 
9 ch, I d 




517. Boy's Slippers 



in 

loop at corner *. From * to '•' is to be made along each side. The 
second round of the border is i d in each ch, 3 d in each corner 
stitch, jd round — ''' Four d, 4 ch '•'. Repeat around. 

Doily. — This doily. No. 512, measures four and one-half 
inches across, and is made of Xo. 30 Cordonnet, with a No. 9 
crochet-needle. Chain 6, join in a ring, rst round — Five ch, i 
t, '•' 2 ch, I t '^ Repeat from '•' to * six more times, 2 ch, join 
with si. 2d round — Three ch, i t over ch, 2 ch, 2 t over same 
ch, * 2 t over next ch, 2 ch, 2 t over same ch *. Repeat from 
'<' to "^ over each ch and join with si. j:d round — Slip stitch across 
2 t, 3 ch, I t over ch below, 2 ch, 2 t over same ch. 2 ch, make 
the shell of 2 t, 2 ch, 2 t, over each ch below and 2 ch betw^een 
shells. 4tJi round — Three ch, i t in ch below\ 2 ch, 2 t in same 
ch, make the shell of 2 t, 2 ch, 2 t over each ch below, that is, 

over the shells and between 
shells, but no chain between 
shells. ^tJi round — Like 
4th, except 3 ch in the shell. 
6tJi round — Four d over ch 
of 3, 9 ch. Repeat, /th 
round — * Two d over 2d 
and 3d of 4 d, 5 ch, 4 t over 
9 ch, 5 ch *. Repeat around. 
8fli round — Slip stitch over 
the 5 ch, * 4 d over 4 t, 9 
ch *. oth round — * Two d 




over 2(1 and 3d d, 5 cli, 4 t over 9 ch, 5 ch *. Repeat. lOtJi 
round — Slip stitch over 5 ch, * 2 d, 3 ch, 2 d, * over 4 t, 9 ch. 
nth round — Three ch, 7 t over 3 ch, 4 ch, si in 5th st of 9, 4 
ch, '^ 8 t over ch, 4 ch, si in 5th st, 4 ch *. Repeat from -^ to 
* all around. 12th round — * One d in 2nd, 4th, 6th, and 8th t 
with 5 ch between, 6 ch '^. 

Doll's Pincushion, No. 513. — When the afghan for DolFs 
Carriage, No. 503, is finished there will be left some little balls 
of each color, and these w^ould make a pincushion like this. The 
top is of white, the bottom of blue, and the pattern of cross- 
stitch (used in the afghan) is of two shades of old rose and 
dull light green, the edge is of light old rose. ^lake two pieces 
of afehan stitch, one ©f white and one of blue, 22 stitches 



afghan 
w4de and 16 ribs Ions:. Remember one 




ffffffmffWfffff^ 



mff 



1 A A A » A « a A A » A 9 nit A 11 » A 1 

A fll A A i A A A A A A AAA A A A A • A^l 
1 A A A AAA! A A m A k A A ^ A A tLkM 







No. 518. Satchel 



rib of afghan stitch 
is two rows of 
work, — taking up 
the loops and 
working back, cro- 
cheting off the 
loops. 

Beginning a t 
the top, cross-stitch 
as much of the 
pattern as the 
white piece will 
hold. With white, 
crochet the top and 
bottom together 
with double cro- 
chet around three 
sides, and on the 
fourth side cro- 
chet into the top 
only. The second 
row of the edge is 
of light old rose, 
-^' I d, 3 ch "^S join- 



22 



ing in every third stitch. Fill the cushion with soft wool, yarn that 
has been raveled out, or something of that sort, and close the 
open side by overcasting. 

Neapolitan Cap. — This cap. No. 514 on page 18, is the one 
which Edwin wears in Fig. 14 on page 19. It is made of fawn- 
colored Saxony (three-t".:read ), and requires two skeins of 
fawn color and enough white to make six rounds. A small 
bone or amber crochet-hook is used. Begin with fawn color, 
ch 137, make a treble into the 4th st from the needle, i t into 
every st of the ch, and join in a ring when making the last t. 
Make seven more rounds like the first, joining the last st of 
each round with a si to the ist st ; ch 3 to start every round. 
Make thirteen 
rounds of double 
crochet. 

Chain only 
one to start the 
new round. Now 
we make 2 rounds 
of white, in 
double crochet, 3 
rounds of fawn, 
2 rounds of white. 
W h e n making 
the second of the 
2 rounds of 

white, fold up the hem of treble crochet and catch that edge with 
the round of white. Three rounds of fawn, 2 rounds of white, 
and 3 rounds of fawn color all in double crochet. The rest of 
the cap is made of 30 rounds of treble crochet, all of fawn. 
In the 2d, 4th, 8th, and 13th rounds it is narrowed in this way: 
Skip one stitch after every ten stitches all around. 

Gather to a point and finish with a tassel. To make this 
tassel, wind the Saxony (fawn color) around a four-inch card 
forty times, chain six inches and put the chain through one end 
of the loops ; tie tightly, and cut the other end of the loops. Tie 
around the head of the tassel and run the chain to the inside 

23 




Fig. 18. Detail of No. 518 



before fastening the gathered top ; this is a pretty finish. 
Reins with Bells. — One skein of tan Germantown and one 
skein of hght blue, 12 bells, and medium bone or amber afghan 
needle are required for this harness, No. 515, which the little 
boy wears, at Fig. 14 on page 19. 

Make a strip of afghan stitch 11 stitches wide and about 
65 inches long of the tan. Four inches from one end take up 
13 stitches along the edge and make afghan stitch 7 inches long. 
This makes the breast band. Crochet the last row of this band 
to the same edge of the long strip, the same distance (four 
inches) from the other end. 

After cross-stitching with blue across the band and up over 
the shoulders (see pattern Fig. 15), turn the ends and sew back 
to the long band, making an armhole twelve inches around. 
Crochet around all the edges with blue, '■' i d, i ch *. Sew six 
bells along the lower edge of the front and three bells back of 
each shoulder; these will look pretty and jingle merrily. 

Lunch- 
eon Napkin. 
— This very 
pretty edge is 
a good finish 
for a Lunch- 
eon Napkin, 
No. 516, but 
it may be 
used for 
m any other 
purposes, 
around the 
edge of a flat 
collar, or in 
very fi n e 
thread it 
would be suit- 
a b 1 e for a 
h a n d k e r- 







■^^^ 



No. 519. 



Cushion Cover 
24 




Fig. 19. Block Pattern of No. 519 



chief. It is made of 
No. 50 Cordonnet, 
with a No. 9 cro- 
chet-needle. For 
the napkin, a twelve- 
inch square of linen 
is to be very nar- 
rowly hemmed, or 
have the edge rolled 

and the crocheting done over the rolled edge. There are four 
rows of crocheting. The first is double crochet into the linen^ 
with 3 ch between the d. About 7 d to an inch spaces it very 
well. 2d rozc — Fasten thread in ch of 3, ch 3, i t into next ch 
of 3, * ch 5, thread over hook twice, hook in next ch of 3, draw 
thread through ch, draw thread through two loops, again draw 
thread through two loops, leaving two on hook, thread over 
hook once, hook through next ch of three, draw thread through 
two loops, draw thread through remaining three loops *. Re- 
peat from ■" to '■' all around. \\'iden at the corners as seen in 
Fig. 16. ^d rozc — Fasten thread between 2 ch of 5, ch 8, i t 
into the same place, * i t into the end of next ch of 5, ch 5, i t 
into same place *. Repeat from * to * all around. 4th rozv — 
Start in the loop between 2 ch, * ch 3, i t into middle stitch 
of I St ch, ch 5, I t into the same place, ch 3, si into the loop 
at the end of the chain *. Repeat from ^ to * all around. 

Boy's Slippers. — When Little Brother needs a new pair of 
slippers these shown in No. 517 would be very easy to make 
for him; the soles are No. 12 and that would be a good size for 




Fig. 20. Edge of Cushion Cover No. 519 

25 



a boy six years old. The materials needed are: One pair of 
slipper soles No. 12; i hank or 2 balls gray Pearl cotton No. 3; 
I skein dark blue Germantown (fourfold) ; and crochet-needle 
No. 3 or 5. The stitch is slipper stitch like that used in the face- 
cloth, No. 501, on page 6. 

Double crochet back and forth, always taking up the back 
loop of the stitch whether on the right side or wrong side. The 
little model, Fig. 17, on this page shows the stitch. To make 

the slipper : Chain 7 
(leaving two inches of 
thread at the first), turn, 
skip I, 5 d in the next 
5 ch, 3 d in the last ch 
stitch ; this makes the 
point of the toe, then 
working on around the 
other side of the chain, 
make 5 d in the 5 ch. 
Now we are at the sole 
again, the point of the toe 
is at the two-inch thread. 
Chain i, turn (chain i 
every time the turn is 
made at the sole), make 
I d in each stitch all the 
way around the point, 
taking up the back loop 
always. There will be 
now 13 stitches around 
both sides. Turn, ch 
I, 6 d in 6 stitches, 3 d in the 7th stitch at the point, and 6 d 
in 6 stitches down the other side. \\^orking around and back, 
making i ch at each turn, and every other row (on the right 
side) make 3 d in the stitch at the point. The row that is cro- 
cheted from the wrong side is not widened. Two rows make 
a rib, and when there are 16 ribs crochet only the first 18 stitches, 
turning with i ch at top and at sole, and without any widen- 

26 




No. 520. Crocheted Bib 




Fig. 21. Crocheted Edge (one row) 



ing. T w e n 
ty-four ribs 
are made and 
the end is 
sewed to the 
other side of 
the front 
part of the 
sHpper. 

After the top is sewed to the sole, crochet around the top 
with * I d, 2 ch, * repeated around. This row is made of gray 
cotton like the slipper. Then one row of treble crochet of dark 
blue Germantown is made, with 3 t over each chain. 

Doll's Book Satchel. — This Book Satchel, No. 518, is a good 
size for a big 
doll, being 
seven and 
one - quarter 
inches wide 
and six and 
one-half inch- 
e s deep. 
Nearly twice 

the measure of this each way would be right for a bag big 
enough for little Brother when he starts to school, as he surely 
will next fall when he is six years old. 

This is made with a No. 5 crochet-needle, of carpet warp in 
three colors : Arabian or gray, blue, and green. A row of green 
each side of 
the blue 
makes the 
stripe; the 
blue looks 
almost like 
gray in the 
illustration. 







Fig. 22. Crocheted Edge (one row) 







The mod- 



Fig. 23. Crocheted Edge (one row) 

27 



el, Fig. 1 8 on page 23 will help us to understand the start- 
ing at the bottom. Chain 61, turn, ist rozv — One d in fourth 
stitch, I d in each except last 3 stitches,^ si in last stitch. This 
makes a loop of 3 ch at each end. ist round — Chain 8, join 
(back to the right as you see in Fig. 18) with si in 3d stitch, 
3 d up over the ch, * ch 5, join with si, 3 d over ch '^. Repeat 
from "^ to * until the loop of 3 ch is reached, make 3 meshes 
in the loop and work on around the other side of the chain, 
putting 3 meshes in the loop at the beginning of the chain. This 
round seems to go backward but it is not hard to do. When 
making the 3 d over the last chain, hold the first chain with the 
last and make 3 d over both together. Then there should be 
42 meshes all around. ♦The 2d round makes 3 d over each ch 
all around. The 3d round is like the first. In starting a round 
we make three sides of a mesh and so need 8 ch, all the other 
meshes need only 5 ch to make two sides of a mesh. 

It takes two rounds of work to make one row of meshes. 
Repeat the first and second rounds fourteen times. The work is 
started with Arabian and 2 rows of meshes are of Arabian color, i 
of green, i of blue, i of green, 4 of Arabian, i of green, i of 
blue, I of green, 2 of Arabian. Then the top is finished with scal- 
lops of 5 t each, all five are joined in the little space between 
groups of doubles, and in the next space i d is made. The 
handles are 2 meshes wide and 9 inches long. Chain 15, turn, 
join (back to the right) with si in 4th st from ist, 3 d over 
ch, ch 5, join in ist st of ch, cover with 6 d (two sides of a 
mesh), 3 d over next ch, ch 8, 3 d over ch, ch 5, 6 d over ch. 
When this is 9 inches long cover along the side with 3 d over 
each chain. 

To make a full-size book satchel, big enough to carry a 
small boy's books, the first chain should be 124, then make i 
d in the 4th ch st (leaving the loop of 3 ch) and i d in each 
ch but the last 3, a si in the last ch. Then the work is like 
the smaller satchel, except it has 84 meshes all around. About 
24 rounds of meshes will be necessary to make it deep enough. 
Several plans are suggested for striping the larger satchel ; one 
is to make 2 rounds of gray, 3 of color (like the smaller one), 

28 



then 2 of gray and 3 of color, then 4 rounds of gray and re- 
verse the lower stripes to the top. Or another plan is to make 
3 rounds of Arabian, 3 of color, 12 of Arabian, 3 of color, and 
3 of Arabian. The third plan is to make the color broader: 
Start with 2 rounds of gray, 2 of green, 2 of blue, 2 of green, 
8 of gray, 2 of green, 2 of blue, 2 of green, and 2 of gray. The 
scallops at the top might be made of green, and then the handles 
should be green also. 



A 




B 


■|H^^P^^^^^pi''^H 




IP"V 


Wk. *- 'J- • ♦ » ' f • ■ 














B^MM'^ 


^ffl 


^^^^^^^^^^^i. ' ' J^^m: ^ ^hIR^ 




^^B^«H 


■BisI 


b. 


^0 



C D 

No. 521. Doll's Outfit 

This is a kind of crocheting not yet very much used, but it 
is to be given to the ''grown-ups" after a while ; for the present 
we will call it ''Lattice Crochet". 

Doll's Cushion Cover. — This small Cushion-cover, No. 519, 
is twelve inches square, made of carpet warp, Arabian, with 
a crochet-needle No. 8. One-half-pound spool will much more 
than make it, indeed, if a larger cushion were wanted, the half 

29 



pound would be more than enough for that. We will give di- 
rections for the larger cushion, too. 

Part of the work is Filet Crochet and part is Slipper Stitch, 
like that of the Boy's Slippers on page 21 and Face-cloth, No. 
501, on page 6. Do not be frightened at Filet Crochet, for it 
is such a simple, easy sort of work, just square meshes, some 
solid and some open. The solid meshes are made of 3 t, that 
is, 2 t over the chain and i t over the t below. 

To Begin the Cushion. — Chain 6 and join in ring with 
si. 1st round — Chain 8, i t in ring, ch 2, i t, ch 5, i t, ch 2, i 
t, ch 5, I t, ch 2, I t, ch 5, I t, ch 2, join with si in third of 8 ch. 
2d round — Chain i (turn and work from the wrong side), i d 
in the back loop of eagh stitch all around, except at the corners, 
where 3 d are made in the middle one of 5 ch. ^d round — Chain 
I (turn and work from the right side), i d in the back loop of 
each d, making 3 d in the middle one of 3 d at the corners. 
These two rounds make a rib of slipper stitch. 4th round — 
Slip stitch to the stitch at the corner, ch 8, i t in the corner 
stitch, 2 ch and i t all the way around, except at the corners ; 
make 2 t in the corner stitch with 5 ch between, si to corner stitch. 
=)th round — Like 4th. 6th and /th rounds — A rib of slipper 
stitch, crocheting the 6th round from the wrong side (like the 
2d), and the 7th round from the right side (like the 3d). Then 
follow 15 rounds of Filet Crochet, for which the pattern is 
given at Fig. 19, page 25. The first of these 15 rounds (or 8th 
round) is all of open meshes. Slip stitch to the corner, 8 ch, 
I t, * 2 ch, I t *. Make from * to * 9 times, ch 5 for the cor- 
ner and repeat, pth round — * Chain 3, 3 t over first chain, 5 
ch, I t over t, 2 t over ch, i t over t*. This makes a solid mesh, 
and each round is to be started in the same way from '^ to *. 
Four open meshes, i solid, 4 open, * i solid mesh, 5 ch, i solid 
*. From * to * makes the corner. From this on the block 
pattern, Fig. 19, is to be followed on all four sides. When 
22 rounds are finished then make i rib of slipper stitch, 2 
rounds of Filet crochet, i rib of slipper stitch, and it is ready 
for the border. Fig. 20. 

A foundation of chain and double is used in the model to 

30 



make one round of the border. Over the first ch make * i d, 
3 ch, id*. Repeat from * to * over each ch. This is a Ht- 
tle different from the edge of Face-cloth, No. 502 on page 7. 
That is, 2 d over each ch and 3 ch between pairs of doubles ; this 
has a pair of doubles over each chain, but the 3 ch separates 
them. Either one is a good little edge for many things. 

If one wanted a large cushion-cover it could be easily made 
by repeating the 25th, 26th, 27th, and 28th rounds until it is the 
size wanted. Repeating them three times would make a very 
good size. Another plan is to make (after the 28th round) nine 
rounds of Filet crochet all open, except at the corners make 
solid blocks like the 9th round, then add the 23d, 24th, 25th, 
26th, 27th, and 28th rounds, and the edge or border. In the 
9 rounds of Filet crochet the pattern could be used if the 
first of 9 rounds is all open meshes, the second one (of 9) has 
a solid mesh next the corner, then 4 open meshes, and then com- 
mence the pattern. 

Baby's Bib. — This pretty Bib, No. 520, is crocheted of a silk- 
finished or mercerized crochet cotton. One spool is sufficient, 
and a No. 8 crochet-needle is a very good size. Number 8 Pearl 
cotton might be used. 

The work should be done slightly loose, not loose enough 
to make it open ; but it will not be soft for the baby's neck if 
it is crocheted too tightly. This bib shows another good use of 
slipper stitch. 

Chain 100, miss I st, i d in each stitch of the chain. Turn, 
ch I, 49 d in the next 49 stitches (taking up the back loop), 
3 d in next st, 26 d in next 26 sts. Turn, ch i, miss i, 26 d in 
next 26 d, 3 d in middle of widening stitches, 26 d in 26 d. 
Turn, ch i, miss i, 26 d in 26 d, 3 d in middle d, 26 d in 26 d. 
Continue in this way, like the last row until there are 8 ribs 
(or 16 rows), then add a stitch on each side of every other row 
until there are 20 ribs. 

Fasten the thread. Start at the end of 26 d and finish out 
the row with doubles. Turn and make the border (which is of 
3 rows) as follows: ist rozi' — * Chain 2, miss i d, i d in next 
*. Repeat from * to * around. 2d roiv — Turn, * ch 3, i d over 

31 



2 ch *. Repeat from '^ to '•' around, making 2 d in each stitch, 
with 2 ch between to turn each corner, jd rozc — Turn, make 
* I t, 4 ch, I d in first of 4 ch, ch i, i t, 4 ch, i d in first of 4 ch, 
ch I, I t, 4 ch, I d in first of 4 ch, ch i, i t, 4 ch, i d in first 
of 4 ch, ch I '% from * to * all over 3 ch, i d over next 3 ch, 
"^^ I d, 4 ch, I d in first of 4 ch '•% from * to '' over next ch, i 
d under next ch, ch i. Repeat from beginning of 3d row all 
around, making 5 t to turn the corners. 

If the neck measure seems small add 30 stitches to the chain 
of 100 to make it long enough and mark the middle of the 
chain to bring the widening in the right place ; the count each 
side of the middle should be followed as given above. 

Edgings. — On page 22 we have three edges crocheted into 
the cloth and finished in one row of work. These edges are so 
useful and so easily done that everybody ought to know a few 
of them. 

Figure 21 is made in this way: Draw a loop of thread through 
the edge of the hem or fold, ch 3, * i t into the cloth, i ch, 2 d 
over the treble as if it were a chain, i ch *. Repeat from '^ to * 
all along the hem. There is a little care needed in separating the 
trebles the right distance, but practice will make that right. 

Figure 22 is so very easy and yet it is new to many work- 
ers. Draw a loop of thread through the cloth and ''■■ make 6 
ch, skip I and take up a loop in each of the 5 ch (taking up 
only one thread), keeping the loops all on the needle; with the 
one already on the needle there will be six, draw one loop through 
all and make a tight chain stitch, then si in the cloth *. Re- 
peat from "^ to '^\ A little practice will show how far apart 
the slip stitches should be placed. 

Figure 23 is more difficult to explain but no harder to do 
than the other edges. Draw a loop through the cloth, ch 3, '■' 
I t, 3 ch, a slip through the loop of the treble that is seen at the 
end of the work in Fig. 23. Repeat from *. This edge is pret- 
tier if it is not crowded too closely. It will stretch a very little 
and look better. 

Dolly's Hood, No. 52 iB. — With white Shetland floss, make 
chain of 6, join with si to form a ring, ist round — Chain 4, 22 

32 



d t in ring, join with si, and after two tight chain stitches cut 
the thread. 2d round — With pink Shetland floss, join in top of 
4 ch, ch 3, make shell as follows : Thread over needle, put nee- 
dle through same stitch (top of 4 ch), draw thread through one- 
half inch, thread over needle, needle through top of next d t, 
draw thread through one-half inch, thread over needle, draw 
through all the stitches on the needle, ch i, * thread over nee- 
dle, needle through top of same d t, draw out one-half inch, 
thread over needle, needle through top of next d t, thread over 
needle, draw thread through all on needle, ch i *. In making 
this shell, the last half of one shell and the first half of the 
next are in the same stitch of the round below. Repeat from "^ 
to ■•" all around, join with si, and after two tight chain stitches 
cut the thread. j(/ round — (White), like 2d round, working 
in top of shells instead of d t. 4th round — (Pink), like 2d, 
making only 20 shells, fasten with si and two tight chain. Cut 
thread, jth round — (Pink), like 4th, 20 shells. dtJi round — 
(White), like 4th, 20 shells, yth round — (White), like 4th, 20 
shells. 8tJi round — (Pink and white together), join in top of 
3 ch, ch 3, make 2 t between chain and first shell, * skip 2 
shells, in space between 2d and 3d shells make i d, 3 ch, and 2 t. 
Repeat this all around the hood, including the back of the neck. 

With pink and white make at each side of hood a chain of 
30 stitches for ties. At the end of chain, pull stitch on needle 
out a half inch, thread over needle, needle through last chain, 
draw thread through a half inch, repeat three times, one loop 
through all on needle, ch i. This makes a little ball. Make a 
second ball and fasten with a si in top of the first ball, si in 
each of next 2 ch. 

Dolly's Tarn, No. 52 iD. — With white Shetland floss, ch 6, join 
with si to make a ring, ist round — Chain 4, make 20 d t in ring, 
join wdth si. 2d round — Chain 4, make shells all around like the 
shell in 2d round of Dolly's Hood, working between d t, half on 
one side and half on the other side of each d t, with 2 ch be- 
tween shells instead of i ch. jj round — Like 2d, except that 
only I ch is made between shells and a widening shell is added 
in this w^ay: Chain 3, make one-half shell between first and sec- 

33 



Olid shells, also one whole shell in same place and one-half shell 
in the same space. A half shell in the next space, '" two more 
shells as usual, then make one-half, one whole, and one-half 
shells in the next space for a second widening '•'. Repeat from 
* to * around. 4tJi round — Chain 4, shell between shells of 
round below, jth and 6th rounds — Like 4th. /th round — * 
Chain 4, i d and 2 ch between every second and third shells *. 
Repeat from * to '^' around. 8tli round — Chain 4, "^^ 2 t over ch, 
ch I, I t in d, I ch *. Repeat around. ptJi round — With both 
pink and white, ch 3, i t in joining stitch, * i d, 3 ch, i t * in 
every 3d t. 

Ball Tassels. — Fasten both colors in centre of tam, make 
two balls like those on ti^s of Dolly's Hood. Fasten the second 
one to the centre of the tam. 

Dolly's Sacque, No. 521 A. — Work loosely with a medium 
bone needle. Whh white Shetland floss, make a chain of 57. ist 
rozc — In the 4th ch from the needle make 2 t, ''' skip i ch, make a 
shell of 2 t in next ch *. Repeat from * to "^ to the end of the row, 
I t in the last ch, fasten with si and 2 tight ch, cut thread. 2d 
rozv — (\\'ith pink Shetland floss), join at beginning of previous 
row, ch 3, make shell of 2 t in shell below. Repeat from * to * 
in next 2 shells, "^ in next shell make 2 shells for widening at 
the armhole, make i shell in each of the next 3 shells, 2 shells 
in next shell, fasten with d back between first double shell and 
shell before it '^'. This makes the armhole. Ten shells in the 
next 10 shells. Repeat from * to '^ for second armhole, 3 
shells in next 3 shells, i t at end of row, fasten and cut thread. 
Sd row — (White), begin at beginning of last row, ch 3, i shell 
in each shell with i t before and after joining the armholes, 
at the end of the row turn. 4th rozc — Chain 3, i shell in each 
shell, ^th and 6th rozi's — Like 4th, fasten and cut thread. 

Border of Sacque. — (Pink), begin at right side top and 
work across neck, down and around. Chain 4, i d t over every 
chain between shells of ist row. Along the side make 4 d t 
over every chain at the end of each row ; along the bottom make 
shell of 3 d t in each shell. Make the second side like the first, 
fasten and cut the thread. 

34 



With white make i d between group of 4 d t and group of 
3 d t, * ch 4, id between the next two groups of 3 d t *. 

Repeat along the bottom, make 3 ch and i d between every 
26. and 3d d t along sides and top of sacque. 

Cord and Ball Tassels. — Use pink and white together, 
leave three-quarters yard at starting and make ch of 100. Make 
a ball at the end like those on Dolly's Tam, No. 52 iD. After 
running the chain in the neck of the sacque make a ball at the 
first end of the thread left there. 

Sleeves. — (White), join under armhole. ist round — Chain 
3, shell of 2 t in centre of each shell, i t at end, fasten with si. 
2d and ^d rounds — Like ist. 4th round — (Pink), like ist. 

Finish the sleeves with chain trimming as for sacque. 



On the last pages you will find a few names of the other 
girls, that are to be crocheted in Filet Crochet like the name 
''Mother" in the towel. No. 504, on page 10. Some of these 
letters are seven meshes high and some of them nine meshes. 
There should be, at least, one open mesh above and one below ; 
and we will call the insertion nine meshes wide where the 
letters are seven meshes high, and the insertion eleven meshes 
wide where the letters are nine meshes high. If you want more 
open meshes at each edge, add the same number above and below. 

Then if there are any names not found here, there is a whole 
alphabet (seven meshes high). Fig. 24, and that will spell any- 
thing. Be sure to make one row of open meshes across be- 
tween each letter and the next one. There are also two little 
borders, Figs, ^y and 38, for the other end of the towel or for 
any other use you may wish to make of them. 

And now, my dear Louise, this is a long, long letter, in which, 
I trust, you will find many interesting things ; some of them 
you will make, and some of them the other girls will make ; and 
I hope both you and all the other girls will learn some new 
things about crocheting. 

Sincerely yours. 

Auntie Belle. 

35 




Fig. 24. Alphabet 



7 meshes high 



Illll l l i llllll l l l ll i ll i llll i l l ll l l Hil l i lllllllll 



Fig. 25 



II meshes high 



IMIBIIi l liMMiiMI 

Fig. 26 II meshes high 



llll l lllillilllli l l l iill ll i 



Fig. 27 



II meshes high 



i l iillWil l HM 



Fig. 28 



9 meshes high 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 



Fig. 29 



36 



9 meshes high 



MiBB 



Fig. 30 



II meshes high 



l l """""" ! """" 



Fig. 31 



9 meshes high 



■■■■■— 



Fig. 32 



9 meshes high 




Fig. 33 



9 meshes high 



i 11 



Fig. 34 



9 meshes high 



11 



Fig. 35 



9 meshes high 



^^ffflMiiWrfWlll M 



Fig. 36 



II meshes high 



■ :::■ 



i 



'i':'i!:'i'?i':'. 



■ :::■ 



Fig. 37 5 meshes wide 



Fig. 38 5 meshes wide 



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